This one proved to be repairable, as it wasn’t too far gone.Īs good as new: The front edge and lower floor section of the battery compartment had new steel welded in place after the rusted areas were cut back to clean metal.Įffortless: The freshly galvanised battery compartment is fixed to the seatbox by a series of blind rivets. Saved it: The Defender battery compartment commonly succumbs to rust and often needs to be replaced. The battery compartment was removed from the seatbox assembly by drilling out the securing rivets so that the rust areas could be cut out on the bench and new metal welded in (as with the bulkhead). I then had it galvanised at the same time as the bulkhead. The original battery compartment from the 110 was rusted and a few holes had formed, so this was repaired in much the same way as the bulkhead which was detailed in part six of this series in the August issue. See also Trevor's previous Project Defender Td5, parts 1-8, in our How-to section.īefore fitting the new battery isolator switch, plus the battery itself and the necessary earth leads, I needed to repair the battery compartment inside the seatbox assembly, and then fit the seatbox to the rolling chassis. Have your work checked by a professional if you have any doubts.Ĭontacts: CJ Collins Auto Electrics, Doagh, Co Antrim, N.Ireland.Ensure the isolator switch cannot be inadvertently switched off by passenger movement or any other accidental possibility.Disconnect the battery before work begins.Parts & costs: Battery main switch 250 amp, £30 from CJ Collins Auto Electrics 50-10 and 50-8 terminals, 50p each from CJ Collins Auto Electrics Battery cabling available new (used old cable here). Tools needed: Hydraulic crimping tool, side cutters, spanners and socket wrenches, sharp craft knife.
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